In Hindu mythology, Onam originates from the great benevolence and sacrifice of God King Mahabali. Lord Vishnu, posing as a dwarf monk ‘Vamana’, came to the king’s doorstep asking for three paces of land. The monk avatar gained cosmic proportions and claimed the Earth and sky in two places. For the third place, the wise king offered his own head. Pleased with his sacrifice, Lord Vishnu made Mahabali the eternal king of the netherworlds and allowed him an annual return for ten days to his loving subjects on Earth. These ten days are celebrated as Onam.
One of the most ancient and revered festivals in the world, the earliest recorded celebrations date back to the 3rd century. Appropriate to its timelessness and stature, the festival is kick-started at the Thrikkakara temple in the city of Kochi, where a flag is hoisted at the temple’s helm.
A colorful carnival parade called ‘Athachamayam’ starts at Thripunithura, a prominent cultural and heritage site 10 km from Kochi. Bedecked elephants are paraded on the streets, accompanied by folk music, dance performances, and floats depicting scenes from Mahabharata and Ramayana. The procession ends at the Thrikkakara temple where prayers are offered and a feast is thrown.
Dances and Performances
Onam enchants with unique and stunning art and dance performances that are unmissable.
Catch a Kathakali performance at the Kerala Kathakali Center in Kochi. This iconic dance form from Kerala is characterized by bold colorful makeup and costumes and mesmerizing pantomime and is a huge draw during Onam.
On the fourth day of the festival, check out the Pulikali folk art or the tiger dance, where the dancers paint themselves and dawn masks and tails in red, yellow, and black hues to resemble a tiger. Immensely popular with tourists, the dance mimics the moves of this graceful feline. The best and largest performances are held in the city of Thrissur, approximately eighty kilometers from Kochi and also the birthplace of this folk dance.
The Races of the War Boats
The most unusual and unique activity during Onam is the snake boat race known as ‘VallamKali’. Traditionally used as battleships, these boats are 120ft long. The oldest race, ‘Aranmula Uthrattathi’, is held on the river Pamba in Aranmula, a heritage village 2.5 hrs from Kochi. It is slated for 11th September this year. The giant boats rowed by hundreds of players, slicing the waters at incredible speeds is a sight to behold.
Another premier boat race, Nehru Trophy, organized at Alappuzha (an hour from Kochi) on the second Saturday of August offers a more professional and competitive race and draws enormous crowds.